Traditional Panettone

Panettone is a towering round of sweet bread speckled with raisins, citrus, and almonds with a plush, buttery texture that is popular both here and all over Italy during the winter holidays.

It makes a dramatic Christmas dessert or breakfast treat. Its Milanese origins date back to the Renaissance, when, it is said, wheat was so scarce and precious it was made only at Christmas.

These days, scores of beautifully wrapped versions of this tall, round cake appear pretty much everywhere in December in Italian and even ordinary grocery stores. Those versions vary in quality; many of them are rather cloying with artificial flavors. So read on, all ye who love a baking challenge!

Yes, this bread is a project! (Two days!) When researching its Italian origins, many accounts of baking it at home were so intimidating that I was ready to give up before I attempted it. But I will not be defeated by yeast, my friends! It took a few tries and also a few shortcuts to get this bread in and out of the oven looking glorious.

I’ve labored over this recipe, so you don’t have to—all you really need is patience for the rising time. The rest is straightforward!

Panettone Is a Labor of Love

On day one, there is a preliminary rise of 45 minutes. After that, mix the final dough and pop it into the fridge. The yeast does its work while you sleep!

On day two, you just have to shape the bread, stick it in the mold, and wait for it to rise. And then, into the oven.

Although this hardly seems like the short version, I did change up some of the traditional baking methods to shorten the time (and energy) it takes to make panettone.

• Replaced the biga with a sponge: I replaced the biga, which is like a sourdough starter and takes at least one day to develop flavor, with a sponge. The sponge is just another starter, but it’s ready to use in only 45 minutes. This switcheroo shaved off an entire day and instead takes only 45 minutes.
• Let the dough rise overnight: I compensated for the biga/sponge shortcut by giving the dough an overnight slow rise in the fridge, which can be extended to two days. The long rise in the fridge gives the dough more flavor, makes it easier to shape, provides flexibility, and some of the work happens while you sleep. This is a win in my book.

Tips for Making Perfect Panettone

Start any time you like during the day or late afternoon that works for you.

• Weigh the flour: If you have a scale, weigh the flour for a more accurate amount. That said, a measuring cup is fine, just use the fluff and scoop method (fluff the flour in the canister before spooning it into the measuring cup and leveling with a knife or scoop). Either way, you may need to add additional flour by a few tablespoons at the end of mixing if the dough seems extra sticky, depending on the brand you are using and the amount of moisture in your flour. Variations in flour type and measurements can contribute to the need for minor adjustments, but this is nothing to worry about.
• Set up a mise en place: Mise en place is the French culinary term meaning to set up everything in advance, or literally, to put everything in its place. It’s a good habit for baking, which I tend to skip and therefore end up scrambling. If you measure ingredients in advance, you will not get confused when adding ingredients in stages or forget a key ingredient.
• Write out your game plan: With a slightly complex but doable two-day baking project, I suggest you write out a timeline, outlining what time you are going to start and each subsequent step, with specific rising, preheating, and baking times solidly on paper.
• On day one, measure each ingredient that will go into the dough, and place everything on a baking sheet. Do this while the sponge is rising and the fruit is soaking. This way, you are ready to roll, and the steps to making the dough go a lot faster.

2-Day Panettone Baking Timeline

Day One:

Prep time: 30 minutes

Rising time: 45 minutes, plus 8 hours (or up to 2 days) inactive time

• 9:00 a.m.: Make the sponge (starter) and let it rise for 45 minutes. Prepare and soak the fruit. Meanwhile, prepare the ingredients for mixing the dough (mise en place).
• 9:45 a.m.: Mix and knead the dough. (20 minutes)
• 10:00 a.m.: Form the dough into a ball in the bowl, and let it rise in the refrigerator for 8 hours, or up to 2 days.

Day Two:

Prep time: 10 minutes

Rising time: 2 to 3 hours

Bake time: 70 to 75 minutes

• 9:00 a.m.: Shape the dough into a rectangle, spread with fruit, form into a ball, and set into the mold. (10 minutes)
• 9:10 a.m.: Let the dough rise (2 to 3 hours)
• 11:10 -12:25: Bake the panettone (70 to 75 minutes)

The Best Pan for Panettone

A panettone pan is typically an oven-safe, tall, straight-sided mold. You can find them made of metal or of paper (which is what we use in this recipe).

Paper panettone molds are inexpensive and pretty easy to find online or at kitchenware stores (call ahead). They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. I used a 7-inch wide by 4-inches high paper panettone mold from Sur La Table.

Alternatively, for this amount of dough, you could use an oven-safe, straight-sided pot of similar dimensions, a 10-inch cake pan with 2-inch sides, or a greased 9-inch tube pan. Just make sure to put parchment rounds in the bottom of the pans or pot.

If using metal pans or pots rather than paper molds, butter and flour the pans and line them with parchment.

How to Slice and Serve Panettone

Slice panettone into thick or thin wedges; it’s entirely up to you. If you baked it in a paper mold, just slice right through it.

Panettone is more bread than cake—it’s only slightly sweet. Feel free to eat it plain, or slather with butter.

Storing and Freezing Panettone

Cool completely and wrap the bread well in foil. The panettone should last up to five days, though it tends to be a bit drier after a day or two.

I have never seen a scrap left after the first day. You can also wrap it in plastic and then foil, and freeze it for up to two months.

What to Do With Leftover Panettone

In the unlikely event you do have a single leftover slice—toast it, butter it, and have it with coffee in the morning. Or if you have several slices, use them to make French toast or bread pudding.

More Holiday Bread Recipes

• Povitica
• Stollen
• Orange Breakfast Rolls
• Cinnamon Sticky Buns
• St. Lucia Buns