Potato Latkes

Latkes, which are wonderfully crisp potato pancakes, are the specialty of the Jewish holiday Hanukkah. But it's actually the oil, not the potatoes, that is significant for the holiday. As the tale goes, ancient Jews used the small amount of oil they had to rededicate their Temple in Jerusalem and the oil lasted for eight days, which is why Jews light candles for eight nights.

Every year, my dad would fry latkes (pronounced LOT-kuz) in a skillet of hot oil, but it bothered him that his batter of grated potatoes would turn gray so quickly from exposure to the air. So he decided to come up with a better latke recipe.

The Secret to Crispy Latkes

My father was an engineer with chemist envy, and there wasn't anything he couldn't figure out with a little trial and error, so he decided to solve this latke problem once and for all. He tried many things over the years, including grating the potatoes by hand into a bowl of grated onions. But when the food processor came along, he found his solution.

He finally settled on this approach:

1. He would mix all the raw potatoes along with some onion in a food processor until the mixture was very smooth and pulpy. He already knew that onion helped keep the potatoes from graying; this worked even better.
2. Then he would wrap the potato-onion mixture in a kitchen towel and squeeze out as much moisture as he could to make the mixture as dry as possible—this helps the latkes crisp.
3. Then he added eggs, flour, and seasonings, and quickly fried the latkes.

These fried latkes are more like latkes you get at Jewish delis, probably because those places also often use this method. They are a little like mashed potatoes in texture, but with a crispy outside.

Which Potatoes Work Best for Latkes

In our many latke-making adventures, we found that russets work best because they're the starchiest potato and available at every market, big and small.

Tips for the Best Potato Latkes

To this day, I still make latkes using his method, with just a few small changes.

• I squeeze the potato-onion mixture in cheesecloth instead of a kitchen towel, since you can just discard the cheesecloth afterwards. (It’s so much easier.)
• I also add one hand-grated potato to the mixture. This adds some appealing texture to the otherwise smooth and creamy latkes, and I love the combination.
• Submerge peeled potatoes in water until you're ready to use them, and then after you've squeezed the potato-onion mixture in the cheesecloth, leave it bundled up in the cheesecloth until you're ready to mix the final latke batter.
• Some cooks make or buy schmaltz, which is rendered chicken fat, and use it to fry latkes. It works especially well and adds a distinctive taste to the potato pancakes. Vegetarians, of course, prefer oil.
• You only need a thin layer of oil in the pan to fry the latkes, but it needs to be very hot. Not sure if it’s hot enough? A crust of bread should brown in 10 seconds. Add the latke batter by the spoonful and let the bottoms brown nicely before turning them.

Suggestions for Serving Latkes

I like to serve latkes in batches as they come off the stove, while hot. If you'd rather serve them all at once, place a baking sheet in the oven and heat the oven to 250°F. Transfer the cooked latkes to the baking sheet to keep them warm until you're ready to serve.

Every latke-loving family has stories about everyone standing around the kitchen pestering the cook for bites of hot, crisp pancakes, not waiting for them to cool. Don’t send them away. It’s the best way to eat latkes!

Add a bowl of sour cream for dipping, and some applesauce too, if you like. Pass the napkins!

Storing and Freezing Latkes

Latkes will keep in the fridge for 5 days. Just wrap them in foil and reheat in one layer on a rimmed baking sheet, uncovered, in a 375°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes.

Latkes will freeze well for one month, wrapped in foil and tucked inside a ziptop freezer bag. Reheat without defrosting in a 375°F oven on a rimmed baking sheet in one layer, covered loosely, for 10 minutes. Uncover and continue reheating for 10 minutes more, or until hot throughout.

More Hanukkah Specialties

• Beef Brisket Pot Roast
• Cocoa Coconut Macaroons
• Applesauce
• Pressure Cooker Beef Brisket
• Fish Stew with Ginger and Tomatoes