Chow Chow Relish

I grew up in the rolling hills of the Piedmont in North Carolina where almost everyone had a garden. We lived on a suburban street, but every summer my mom processed the fruits and vegetables from our hearty garden: canned tomatoes, bread and butter pickles, and plenty of grated zucchini popped into the freezer awaiting quick bread once the weather turned cool.

Backyard gardens filled our plates and pantries all summer long. And just as August bore down and we didn’t think it could get hotter, the weather broke. The garden crescendoed into a tangle of vines past their prime as the days shortened and the nights turned cool. 

It was a unique time, a bleeding from one season to the other—the tomatoes staying green longer, the cukes getting seedier. The final assignment on the pantry to-do list was a celebration of the shoulder season: chow chow.

What is Chow Chow Relish?

Simply put, chow chow is a relish made using late summer produce. Green tomatoes were the inspiration for this chow chow, so they are the centerpiece for the recipe. The flavor definitely skews on the side of tangy versus sweet in order to keep that fresh garden taste. 

There’s also lots of onion, sweet bell pepper, and not many spices—my family has a traditionally mid-South “salt and pepper” only cooking palate. This recipe keeps true to those roots by accentuating with celery and mustard and no hot peppers. 

Chow Chow History

Revered Southern food historian John T. Edgerton asserted that the name originated from a condiment made by Chinese railroad workers. But that condiment included a lot of orange peel and ginger, a far cry from chow chow as I know it.

Other explanations include the migration of French Acadians, since their word for cabbage was “chau.” My theory is that the Carolina version I know originated with the Pennsylvania German and Dutch settlers, who traveled the wagon road to the South bringing their love of relishes and mustard with them. 

Whatever the origin, the reason for chow chow’s continuation in the Southern preservation canon has always been economy. In modern times, we use words like “sustainability” and “no waste,” but the desire to reduce food waste is the same—and the results are delicious.

Variations on a Chow Chow Theme

Chow chow is a late summer or early fall recipe whose inspiration is the last of the summer garden vegetables. There are as many variations of this finely chopped, vinegar-laced relish as there are varieties of heirloom tomatoes. Try these simple tweaks:

• Substitute 1 cup of corn for 1 red or orange bell pepper
• Add 1 to 2 cloves of minced garlic
• Add 1 jalapeño or other hot garden pepper or 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of dried red pepper flakes
• Add 1/2 teaspoon of turmeric
• Use brown sugar in place of white sugar

Storing and Canning Chow Chow Relish

It’s best to store chow chow in glass jars since vinegar and spices can leave scent and flavor residue on plastic. Pint jars are the most common size for chow chow (the tangy condiment can top a variety of dishes) but half-pints—commonly referred to as jelly jars—are also applicable.

Once the mixture cooks and is transferred to jars, you can simply chill for a quick refrigerator relish that will keep in the fridge for 4 months. For longer storage, can chow chow relish by processing in a water bath. The processing time will be the same for both jar sizes.

I advise against freezing the mixture, as the thawing process can make it more watery than desired. 

How to Use Chow Chow Relish

• Dollop on top of black-eyed peas, white beans, or crowder peas
• Mound on a hot dog
• Top leftover collard greens
• Use to garnish deviled eggs
• Mix into cream cheese to make a quick dip

Preserve Summer With These Canning Recipes

• Canned Tomato Salsa
• Bread and Butter Pickles
• Corn Relish
• Strawberry Jam for Canning
• Pickled Okra